Alaska Vacation: Hiking at Eielson Visitor’s Center [Part 5]

Uncategorized

Didn’t mean to leave everyone hanging after my last two posts! But, really, a good story takes a while to tell, right? And this next chapter includes my first real “backcountry” hike, bears, caribou, and pretending to be a park ranger in Denali. Yes, you read that right.

Need a quick refresher? Read Part 4 here.

When you last left the two of the heroes of this story (aka my friend Stephanie and myself) decided to leave Wonder Lake and take the bus back to Eielson Visitor’s Center.

Panorama of the view from Eielson

We’d decided we wanted to hike the Old Gorge Creek Trail since it was the one our friend John had worked on. However, when we arrived at Eielson this sign greeted us at the trailhead.

Oooookay. I guess we won’t go that way! Instead, we decided to try the Alpine Trail. Which had something like over 1000 feet of elevation gain in under a mile. Whew!

But, the views were spectacular.

Over three quarters of the way to the “top” this sign greeted us:

Eh, you know what? You only live once! Stephanie and I decided to ignore the sign and go ahead. Thank goodness we did because the views only got better. Also, we got our first real taste of hiking without a trail.

Yep, THIS sign means we were now free to roam wherever we wanted. And roam we did. We climbed a ridge and played in the snow.

That may look like a bank of clouds next to my left elbow, but it’s actually Mt. Denali! 

Then, as we were exploring, we looked up as this guy came over the ridge and seemed to head straight for us!

Um, hello little guy. We’re caribou-friendly, I promise! Stephanie and I froze and reviewed the wildlife safety tips we’d read and what John had shared. Bear? Freeze, spread your arms, and be loud. Moose? Run and get behind a tree. Caribou? NO IDEA! So, we froze and just chatted with each other figuring if we ignored him then he would ignore us. He stopped, looked at us, and then continued on his way along the ridge.

Stephanie and I marveled at how close he’d come and then continued marveling at the fact that we were on a mountain, in Alaska, and we could walk wherever we wanted!

We didn’t stay up there forever, though. While we were hiking up Alpine we turned around to take in the view and saw mama bear and her little cub almost a mile away, down the mountain, wandering away from the trail we’d wanted to hike originally. The little tan specks were barely discernible as bears, but it’s definitely what they were. So, we headed back down to see if it was safe to hike Gorge Trail.

Turns out it was, but we didn’t really have time to hike all of it before we needed to catch the last bus that would get us back to our campsite in time for dinner and the evening’s ranger talk.

And, let me tell you, it’s a good thing we got back in time. Because this evening ended up being one of my favorite stories of the trip.

See, a few evenings a week, a ranger comes to the campground and does an educational talk on something to do with Denali. I’d see on the schedule on the bulletin board at Eielson that this evening’s was on “Dinosaurs in Denali”. Sounds like an interesting way to spend an hour.

After dinner and a little before 7PM, Stephanie and I started walking to the “amphitheater” (aka the clearing with log benches) to hear the ranger talk scheduled to start at 7. As we got close, a man came running up to us.

“Have you seen the Smith family? Their son is injured! He was bit by a dog!!”

Whoa. Okay. I knew the ranger would be at the amphitheater and I knew the campground also had a host station where someone should be with a radio. I looked at Stephanie and told her to go get the ranger and I would go get the host. Off we ran in separate directions.

On my way to the host, I ran into a guy I’d talked to the day before. “Don’t worry,” he said. “I got the host and they’re radioing for an ambulance.” Don’t forget – cell phones don’t work in backcountry!

I ran back to Stephanie and saw that the ranger was with the boy and his family. Okay, great. “Someone needs to tell people that the ranger talk might not happen,” I said.

“Go for it,” Stephanie said.

Well. It’s a good thing I’ve been in Toastmasters for years and don’t have a fear of public speaking!

So, I went up in front of a group of 20 or so people to explain the situation. “You can wait and see if the ranger comes back, though.”

At that point, my friend John came up to stand next to me. “While we’re waiting,” he said, “what animals have you seen in the park so far?”

And that’s when I noticed the ranger had left all of her notes and visual aids on the bench behind me.

Yes, together John and I gave the presentation on Dinosaurs in Denali to a packed house! And then John explained more about trail building and maintenance in the park and we attempted to answer questions.

Let me remind you: I’d been in Alaska less than a week and in Denali for less than 3 days. Still, we did a good enough job that we got compliments from people who attended when we saw them the next day. And no one left while we were speaking! The ranger didn’t come back while we were talking and when we left after over an hour she was still with the kid and his family. We heard later that the ambulance was delayed because there was a moose on the road. Only in Alaska, right?

Thinking about taking a trip of your own next summer? No one says you have to end up giving a ranger talk! But you will need to pack the right stuff. My last post gave my recommendations and many of them are on sale again at Shopbop. 

Personally, I’m looking at comfy cardigans, scarves, and booties.

Sale ends Sunday 11/25/18, 11:59pm Pacific Time Zone. Brand exclusions: Birkenstocks, Canada Goose, Ray-Ban, Tumi, Arc’Teryx Veilance, ARC’TERYX, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Oakley, Persol, Prada, Prada Linea Rossa, Versace, Alison Lou, Lana Jewelry, Acne Studios, Commando, Gucci, Hanky Panky, Isabel Marant Etoile, Isabel Marant, Kate Spade New York ,Krewe ,MICHAEL Michael Kors, Monse, Natori, Senreve, SHINOLA, Skarlett Blue, Spanx, Sydney Evan, Tibi, Tory Sport, Zimmermann

 

What to pack for a trip to Alaska

Uncategorized

Let’s take a quick break from talking about what I did in Alaska to talk about what I wore. My friend put together an excellent packing list that I used as my guide. But, I had some workhorses that I wore over and over again. I mean, hey, I never got that sweaty and who cares if your pants are a little muddy?

Most of my items came from REI. I swear, I just handed them my paycheck. I bought my first pair of hiking boots and LOVED them. They’ll probably become my winter boots, too, for when it’s gross and slushy outside. They’re super comfortable, waterproof, and I hiked 10+ miles in one day in them with no blisters. Total winners.

I also bought two pairs of convertible pants. I never did zip them off into shorts, but I loved having so many pockets. Plus, they were water resistant which was perfect for glacier climbing and kayaking and, for, uh, learning how to “go” in the woods. I also bought a pair of these North Face pants and they were great for travel. Now they’re my go-to post-workout pants at home.

Oh, and I can’t forget my rain jacket that my friend Annabelle gave me!

Of course, when I wasn’t hiking or climbing or being active, I needed something to wear around the campsite. My recommendation? Sweatpants and a sweatshirt. They’re even perfect for giving a ranger talk. Long story. I’ll share it soon!

My sweatshirt was also a gift from Annabelle but my sweatpants are from Shopbop. And, yes, Shopbop is having a sale if you want to stock up on sweatpants, or sports bras, or other activewear or athleisure. Look! It comes in handy for the gym, for lounging around the house, or pretending you know what you’re talking about in front of a group of strangers.

The sale starts today if you use the Shopbop Mobile App or tomorrow if you don’t. But I recommend you don’t wait as things do sell out quickly. What’s the sale, you ask?

  • 20% off orders under $500
  • 25% off orders of $500 or more
  • Use code STOCKUP18 when you checkout

My exact sweatpants are here. I also recommend a few running or sweat-wicking tops like this one to wear as base layers. Also, if you’re going hiking, you’re going to want to wear something other than your hiking boots around camp. A pair of sneakers is perfect. Mine are Nike but I really like these, too.

Oh, and some sports bras. That’s what I wore the entire trip. And lots of socks. Having clean socks is the best. I bought a bunch of SmartWool socks and plan to wear them a lot this winter, too.

Other items I recommend? A packable vest, at least one pair of running tights or leggings, a hat, sunglasses and gloves (especially if you want to go glacier climbing!) I think I wore everything I brought at least once. And, to be honest, I could have worn some things a few more times than I did.

Figuring out how to layer is key. Most days I wore a sports bra, running tank top, long sleeved running top, my vest, a jacket and a pair of my convertible pants. Then I would strip off a layer on top and put it in my backpack as I got warm.

I learned a lot on this trip. How to dress for summer in Alaska is just one of the many things. In my next post I’ll tell you what I learned about behaving around caribou, what happens when there are bears on the trail you want to hike, and how to pretend you know everything there is to know about dinosaurs in Denali.

Alaska Vacation: Backcountry Camping in Denali National Park [Part 4]

Uncategorized

As promised in Contrave and zoloft interactions, it’s time to talk about Denali’s back country. I fully admit that when I signed up for this trip I had no idea what to expect. I purposefully chose not to Google everything on the itinerary. I trusted my friend who was putting the trip together and I trusted that we’d have a good time.

Turns out this was the BEST decision. I was able to learn so much while there, whereas reading about it online ahead of time would not have done it justice. For example, what the heck does “backcountry” mean?

Traveling and camping in this expansive terrain is special. The lack
of developed trails, bridges, or campsites means that you are free
to determine your own route and discover Denali for yourself. – source

Backcountry means you can only get to this part of the park if A. you have a special permit to drive and camp at Teklanika River and/or B. you purchase a park bus pass to ride the bus past Savage River.

We had the special permit to drive our RVs to the Tek campground. However, we had a slight snafu when two of our RVs missed the turn to the campground and had to figure out how to turn around on the super narrow gravel road!

Hanging out, eating trail mix, waiting for our other RVs to figure out how to turn around

Thankfully, everyone finally arrived at the campsite safely and with enough time to set up and get in a short hike along the river before dinner. I stayed behind and read my book, though. Hey, when you’re traveling with 17 people you’ve got to find some peace and quiet when you can.

After dinner we discussed the plan for the next day. We had guaranteed seat bus passes on the first bus of the day that allowed us to take the bus all the way to Wonder Lake, aka the end of the road. However, this can be a 4+ hour bus ride from Teklanika! Why so long? Well, the buses stop for wildlife and at several other scenic areas. Also, backcountry campers with permits to camp outside of designated campgrounds and hikers that want to hike in the backcountry can ask the bus to stop anywhere along the road and get out. Plus, the road is entirely gravel and is barely two lanes wide!

All of this makes for an interesting trip. I admit, Wonder Lake is the one thing I Googled in advance because I wasn’t sure that I wanted to ride the bus all the way there. However, if the weather was just right it would be the best view of Mt. Denali (f/k/a Mt. McKinley). I didn’t want to get so close and then regret not going. So, I decided to ride all the way to Wonder Lake.

I also figured that riding all the way out to Wonder Lake would give me the best sense of what to expect of backcountry. And, let me tell you, it did NOT disappoint.

 

We definitely saw wildlife (caribou trotted in front of the bus for awhile), and we saw some amazing vistas.

This stretch is known as Polychrome. 

Once we got to Wonder Lake, though, we realized that it was too cloudy to see Mt. Denali and that Wonder Lake is, in words my mom once used to describe a lake in Minnesota, “a mosquito infested weed hole.”

Thank goodness our friend added “mosquito head net” to our packing lists

Okay, maybe it was still pretty, but some of us quickly decided we’d rather ride the bus back to Eielson Visitor’s Center and hike two of the only three groomed trails in backcountry.

And that’s where I’ll pick up the story next time.

Contrave and zoloft interactions

Contrave and zoloft interactions Uncategorized

In today’s installment of “So you want to take an Alaskan vacation”, we’re going to talk about Denali National Park and Preserve. And if you need a refresher of how we got here, don’t forget to read Part 1 and Part 2.

When I left off last time, we’d just finished running the Anchorage Marathon and were getting ready to take RVs to camp in Denali.

This part of the trip is going to be the most difficult to write about. Why? Because SO MUCH happened. Plus, the magnificence of Denali National Park and Preserve is almost impossible to explain. But, I’ll do my best.

We rented the RVs from Great Alaskan Holiday and they came with everything we needed except food, a camp stove, and wash basins. Thankfully, part of our group went shopping for ALL THE FOOD the day before and our group leader could borrow some other items from Sierra Club friends.

All of our meals while camping were planned out so there was never any scrambling or wondering what to make. I promise, that made life so much easier.

Anyway, the morning after the race we loaded up the three RVs and started the 6+ hour drive from Anchorage to Denali. The drive went pretty quickly and before we knew it we were at the Denali Visitor’s Center.

We didn’t hang around for too long, though, because several of us wanted to hike the trail from the Visitor’s Center to the Sled Dog Kennels!

Yes, Denali park rangers still use sled dogs to get around in the winter. Why? Because there’s only one road in all of Denali! Yes, six million acres with one road.

While we were visiting the sled dog kennels, suddenly all of the dogs jumped up on their houses and started howling and barking. Turns out there was a mama moose about 100 yards away!

Also, the dogs got SO EXCITED when it was time for the demonstration. They all wanted to participate!

After visiting the kennels, we hopped on a park bus for a ride to our campground for the night: Savage River.

Savage River is the last campground in what it called “front country.” Meaning you don’t need a special permit to drive your RV to Savage River and it’s the trail head for one of the last “groomed” trails: Savage Alpine.

There are not very many marked trails in Denali, and most of the trails are short (less than 2 miles) and near the park entrance. One of the reasons Denali exists is to provide people with a place to explore a trail-less wilderness, and a result of this is a limited trail network. – Denail website

We set up our RVs for the night. Again, don’t forget it doesn’t get dark! We all went to bed fairly early, though. We had a busy next day planned!

One thing to note: even though we were sleeping in RVs, they weren’t hooked up to power or water. We were rationing the onboard propane and water and, as such, weren’t cooking, using the bathroom, or showering in them. Thankfully the campsites had nice outhouses and outdoor running water spigots. But, it did mean no showers!

In the morning, we layered up (it was chilly in the mornings but got warmer throughout the day), ate breakfast, and then headed out to hike the Savage Alpine trail. Our group leader had helped build this trail!

This was really when I started to see what people mean about not being able to describe Alaska. It’s so….expansive. And beautiful. And in less than 4 miles of trail you can experience almost every kind of terrain possible. I just couldn’t stop marveling at the views.

A little over four miles and several hours later, we arrived at the Savage River, reconvened with our RVs, and then it was time to head into back country!

What does that mean? I promise to explain in Part 4!